 I heard this morning that a good friend of mine had died in his sleep on Sunday night. It was all the more of a shock as I had been speaking to him on Saturday, making plans and doing deals.
Bill Baker was a wine-merchant in the old fashioned, and in my view best way. He told his customers what to drink and what was best, and through experience of his good judgment they accepted his word. Only a week ago I asked him if he had any good old dry oloroso Sherry. He said he had two but he thought I would like one better and as he would be in london he would drop a case off. No invoice no discussion about price. The sherry is magnificent and I e-mail him to say so and could we have some for my Club in St James's? His verbatum reply was, " tis a blend I did me-self g'vnor, I think we'll charge you £25 a bot. plus this frightful government's share!"
I knew Bill had indeed made the selection from our mutual friend in Sanlucar, Xavier Hildalgo, and because it was Bill i also know Xavier would give him access to some lovely old casks. The 'old' wine business was like that, if you liked someone and they knew their stuff, they always got the best. Bill's attitude to price was the same, some might think £25 a bottle for sherry rather steep, but he didn't care, if they didn't appreciate the wine and its value then they should go elsewhere. In fact this sherry for its age and quality is cheap, Bill knew that, he would always offer good value.
Those who knew Bill will not be surprised he has died quietly in his sleep at the young age of 53. To say Bill lived life to the full would be an understatement. He was very large indeed with a ruddy complexion but always appeared full of energy, wit and fun, indeed many people have called him "Pickwickian" , which is certainly true. But there was so much more to this huge man, he was clever and well read , you could have a sensible conversation about anything from Opera and Ballet to Literature and politics, and Bill would always have a strong and often contrary opinion.
I introduced him to my doctor a few years ago, as I was worried about his health and thought he should have a check-up. I knew they would get on well, as my Doctor is a similar bon viveur, also a large man, and both with a passion for food and wine. Bill resisted the idea, saying that his father had died when he was young and had lived life to the full, and he intended to do the same. and was buggered if he would cut down on anything. He was eventually persuaded by the idea that preventative medicine for high blood pressure etc could be a minor sacrifice, besides he had young children who would like to know their father as they grow older. After his first appointment I called to see how they had got on. He was thrilled that he had been able to settle the account for the consultation by sending some good Burgundy up to a fishing lodge on the Tweed, that the consultation had ended with Lunch at the Garrick where they had consumed a bottle of Coche Dury Meursault, and a 1978 Hermitage La Chapelle. As far as his health was concerned he had been warned as ever about being 10 stone over-weight , but was quite concerned that his knees would not hold out and he might have to have replacements but not for a few years!
Bill was generous in every way, and when he was having some business difficulties with his partner in the early days of Reid Wines, I helped him a tiny bit, and he never forgot that. So when recently I had some business difficulties of my own, he was the first to pick up the telephone and offer support.
The shock and sadness of his loss comes when I had thought he was at his peak, and he looked so well. But when you think that last week he went to a tasting on Monday morning having driven up very early from near Bristol to deliver my and other peoples wines,( he often did deliveries as well as everything else, in order to save cost particularly if we was in the area). Then after a big lunch he had a kip, before getting on a flight to South Africa, where he would have spent two days tasting and no doubt eating. Then flying back in to spend two days down at Southwold tasting over 100 classed growth clarets, and where I know he organised a wonderful dinner with lots of old and exquisite wines, including an ancient Dr Barolet Chambolle Musigny he had bought, which with its richness and warmth and complex lingering wonderful flavours, was so much like Bill. Then driving back to Halletrow near Bristol on Saturday, he was in his office catching up on his weeks correspondence and deals.
There will be a lot of tears shed for this man who was dearly loved by so many. His young family should take comfort in the sure knowledge that much as he loved them, he knew that he would go this way sometime , as will we all, and he had undoubtedly crammed two lifetime's living into the all too short 53 years. He will always be remembered , and for me every time I sip an old exquisite sherry, or a gamey sweet old Burgundy, his memory and his booming voice will come flooding back "..what are you up to Burr, drunk anything good lately?" Christopher Burr 29.1.08
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